2)TIPS FOR CHOOSING THE RIGHT STAIN OR DYE FOR YOUR PROJECT

Source:www.stonediamondtool.com Date:2018/9/6 Read:387

By Rick Lobdell, Concrete Mystique Engraving, Nashville, Tenn.

Liquid Acetone Dyes

Liquid dye is not actually a dye but more accurately a very thin, UV-stable solvent-based stain with particles small enough to absorb into the surface. They come in a larger range of color choices than non-UV-stable powdered dyes. I love the color ranges you can achieve in a short amount of time. Like their powered cousins, these dyes dry very quickly.

Tips for using:

· You can’t polish surfaces colored with liquid dye, like you can with powdered dye. Although liquid dye does a great job of penetrating into the concrete, it will still leave a small film on the surface that would be removed during the polishing process.

· I use acetone dyes all the time with very hard topcoatings like urethanes and epoxies. I have no plans for anyone to ever wear through my floors.

Water-Based Stains

Most water-based stains are more of a paint designed to bond to concrete, and like paint, they come in a broad range of colors. However, they are a surface coating only because the particles tend to be too large to absorb into the concrete. As an artist, I like how water-based stains give you a longer working time than with dyes, which gives you greater control over color.

Tips for using:

· With water-based stains, the concrete surface profile is extremely important. Since these stains are more about bonding and less about absorption, the surface needs to be rougher than with dyes.

· These stains work well in outdoor settings since they are UV stable, but remember to reseal them regularly. Since these stains are like a sheet of plastic bonding to the surface, you need to protect them.

· Only water-based stains and UV-stable acetone dyes have white as a color option. That’s because the actual particle that makes white -- titanium -- is too large to absorb into the concrete.

Solvent-Based Stains

These stains are used primarily to tint solvent-based coatings. Depending on the solvent used, they can dry fairly quickly. Indoors, I like to use solvent-based stains with epoxies and urethanes as an easy way to create a solid color that will last, especially for industrial or other high-traffic floors.

Tips for using:

· When using these stains to tint coatings, make sure they are compatible with the chemical-makeup of the coating.

· Use caution when using these stains to tint outdoor coatings. Because the stain will be bonding to the coating rather than the concrete, the color will come off if the coating wears away. I see this happen all the time, and it is very difficult to recoat and correct the color in these spots. Normally I protect outdoor surfaces with solvent-based sealers. It is always best to reseal every 2 to 3 years.